3. BUILD THE DECK
Draw out the deck on your
Coroplast following the deck
template, and use a ruler
and box cutter to cut it out.
Coroplast is a difficult material to work with, and multiple
light passes with a very sharp
knife work best. Muscling it
just annoys the Coroplast and
generally results in a sliced
finger. The Towel is not meant
to be a Band-Aid. Keep your
blood off it.
Save the scraps, you’ll need
some later.
3
4"
5"
7"
2½"
4"
12"
16"
IMPORTAN T: It’s critical
that the servos be well
and solidly attached to the
deck, and that the elevons
be well connected to them.
These are typical weak
spots on deck builds; if
they’re not well attached,
then on every landing or
crash, the servos shift and
the trim of the Towel is lost.
Out-of-trim airplanes are
very hard to fly because
they require constant control input for level flight.
The length of the control
rods is the only thing on
the deck that must be
measured precisely within
+ –½" of precision.
3
4. MOUNT HE SERVOS
4a. Peel the labels off your
servomotors and clean
them with alcohol or another
solvent if they’re greasy.
4b. Apply double-stick tape
to the servos and attach
them to the deck, with their
wires toward the front and
their shafts toward the
outside edges. If the wires
are short, you may need to
move the servo closer to
the propeller hole, or right
to its edge. The prop hole is
designed around the shortest
servo leads we’ve found.
4a
4c
4c. The tape keeps the servo
in place but it needs reinforcement from zip ties.
Place the holes for the zip
ties very close to the servo
housing so the servo can’t
move. If the ties are too short
they can be doubled easily,
as shown here. 4c
4b
TIP: Crossing the zip ties
yields a strong bond to the
deck to withstand crashes.
4c
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