NOTE: These pieces are made from
cast iron, which isn't hard enough
to use as a real hammer.
3" nipple 6" nipple
Branch or dowels
A X = loose joint
tee. If you’re careful, this will allow the horizontal shafts to pivot smoothly and easily.
3. Assemble the hammer and attach it to
the open end of the upper tee.
4. Assemble the 2 yokes from remaining
flanges, 18" pipe nipples, and tees.
5. Fasten the frame and the 2 yokes to the
plywood base using #10 wood screws.
6. Assemble the treadle and attach it to the
open end of the lower tee.
7. Cut a green branch approximately ½" in
diameter (or a bundle of thinner branches)
about 3' long. Insert it through the tees at the
MATERIALS AND TOOLS
Plywood, ¾"× 2'× 4'
Pipe and fittings, black iron,
Flanges ( 4)
Nipples: 1½" ( 3), 3" ( 3), 6" ( 4),
8" ( 2), 18" ( 2)
Tees ( 8)
Elbows ( 2)
Plugs ( 2)
Caps ( 2)
Branch or dowel, ½" diameter
or slightly bigger to fit tightly
in the ½" tees. We bundled two
Wood screws, #10× 3" ( 16)
Cord, a few feet
Pipe wrenches, medium ( 2)
top of the yokes so that one end is just above
the middle of the hammer.
8. Move an anvil or other suitable hammering
surface into place below the hammer. Adjust
the hammer and treadle tees so the treadle
and hammer levers are roughly parallel.
9. Connect the hammer to the tip of the
branch with strong cord. You may need to
notch the branch to hold the string in place.
Depress the treadle, and the hammer strikes
the anvil. Release it, and the spring pole pulls
the hammer back up. ;
William Gurstelle is a contributing editor of MAKE. Visit
williamgurstelle.com for more information on this and other
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