1g. Clamp the 2" round head screw in a vise, and file
flats on opposite sides of its tip.
1h. Reassemble the drive wheel with the filed screw as its new
axle and with the 2 jam nuts locking the wheel to the screw.
Check that the wheel and axle turn freely.
1i. Draw three 120° sectors on the underside of the turntable disk and use a wheel assembly to mark
mounting holes for each wheel, spacing them equidistant around the perimeter. Center-punch and drill
holes for the 12 mounting screws using a #21 bit.
1j. At the drive wheel’s location, drill a fifth, t" hole centered between the 4 mounting holes. On the top
of the turntable, draw a diameter line that passes through this t" hole (as seen in the photo in Step 1n,
following page). Countersink the 12 mounting holes, but not the t" hole.
1k. Install the 3 wheels on the underside of the turntable, locating
the modified drive wheel over the t" hole.
1l. Make a photocopy of your protractor. Draw a line on the copy
from the 90° mark down through the origin. If it has an inner set
of numbers, white them out with correction fluid. Make a copy of
the modified copy, and cut it into a neat wedge that includes the
origin and the range of degrees from 60 to 120.
1m. Paint the back of the protractor cut-out with polyurethane, then stick it to the topside of the turntable,
with the origin centered over the t" hole and the 90° mark lined up with the diameter line from Step 1j.
Apply more polyurethane over the paper as a sealer.