PROJECTS: GEARED CANDLEHOLDER
2c. Roughly cut the back panel of the body on a band saw and
drill the holes. The Y" holes in the corners are for 8-32 machine
screws that hold 1½" threaded standoffs between the 2 panels.
2d. Use the back panel as a template to mark the front panel.
To improve visibility of the gears, make the middle area of the
front panel a little smaller. Clamp the panels together and redrill
the ¼" holes for the pinion (the smallest gear) and the Y" arm
holes through the back and front panel together. These are the
only holes in the front panel.
2e. Tap the holes for the larger gears on the back panel the same way you tapped the gears in Step 1h.
2f. For the pinion axle, which will connect to the knob, cut a
1" piece of ¼" steel rod. Put one end through the center of the
pinion and slip a clamp-on shaft collar on top. To join the collar
and pinion, drill a 5" hole down through both, off to one side,
and use a small hammer to drive in a 5" tension pin.
2g. Make the knob the same way you made the gears, as a
5-tooth gear with ½" teeth (pitch radius = 0.796", marks every
72°). Drill and attach the knob to a shaft collar with a tension pin,
the way you did the pinion in Step 2f.
2h. For the feet, cut two 4" lengths of 4" aluminum rod. They
need 2 slots cut halfway through them, ¼" wide and 1½" apart.
Put the feet in a vise and use a hacksaw to cut each side of the
slot, and then saw diagonally across both to clear out material in
between. Finish clearing out the slots with a coarse file until the
body panels fit in them. You’ll attach these feet with epoxy later.
3. CUT THE ARMS
Each of the larger gears drives an arm that moves 2 parallel levers up and down. The other ends of these
levers hold the candle bracket, forming a 4-bar parallelogram linkage that keeps the candle upright. All the
holes need to be placed accurately for the movement to work.
92 Make: Volume 21