2. Cut the toggles.
Each toggle uses two 1¼" finishing nails: one
provides the pivot that it spins around and the other
sticks out the back for the reset mechanism. Use
a closed-grain hardwood for the toggles and horizontal pieces, so they can withstand all the marble
2a. Cut out the 6 paper templates from the toggle
template you printed in Step 1a, and glue them onto
1× 4 hardwood. Use a band saw or jigsaw to cut the
shapes out (Figure A).
2b. For the pivot nail holes at the bottom, drill a
centered W" hole all the way through and countersink it with a r" hole 2mm deep for the nail head
to sit flush. For the reset nails, drill a e" pilot hole
from the back, going only 12mm deep.
2c. Sand the template paper off the toggles.
3. Cut the verticals and
3a. Cut the 11 vertical pieces, following the plan.
I used spruce 2×6s. All are 19mm thick, front to
back, and 18mm wide. Start with the 5 top pieces,
which are just simple rails.
3b. For the 6 bottom vertical pieces, which have
a cutout next to the toggle, cut 3 pieces just over
36mm wide. Using a 11" Forstner bit, drill holes
centered 24mm down from the top, then cut the
rails down the middle and trim to length. Don’t cut
the holes with a spade bit, since that probably won’t
cut cleanly. If you don’t have a 11" Forstner bit, you
can cut the rounds out with a fine band saw blade
or a scroll saw.
3c. Follow the template sliders.png that you printed
in Step 1a to cut and drill the horizontal pieces: a
feeder above each toggle, the input holder, input
slider, input slider holder, bottom rail, result holder,
result slider, result slider support blocks, and clear
ramp. All holes are 0". I added some extra length
to the clear ramp, not on the template, so the marbles could dump into a bowl more easily.
punching lightly through the paper with a chisel. Be
sparing in how many places you mark, and circle
the points on the template where you marked the
wood, so that after you remove it, you can still figure out what corresponds to what.