Fig. A: Mark a perfect centerline. Fig. B: This simple jig
feeds the board cleanly through the table saw blade.
Fig. C: Use a Dremel and cutoff wheel to cut the metal
edges. Fig. D: Center-punch or pilot-drill holes for the
pivoting board hooks and other hardware. Fig. E: Mark
holes for the touring brackets and climbing blocks
using the paper template. Fig. F: Use regular or goofy
stickers to mount binding pucks at the correct angle.
left to the professionals.
Sand the edges until the seams are parallel and
smooth, then clean the edges with a damp cloth
and let dry. Mix a batch of epoxy and apply along
the edge in a thin layer. Avoid a thick buildup, as it
can make connecting the board halves difficult.
Let epoxy cure, then sand and repeat ( 3–5 coats).
3. Mount the pivoting board hooks.
3a. To maintain alignment over the next few steps,
precisely align the snowboard halves, and wrap
packing tape around the width of the board in several places, and down the center seam.
With the base on a flat surface, locate and mark
the 2 contact points at the nose and tail. From each
point, move 1" toward the center (lengthwise) and
mark the top sheet.
3b. On the top sheet, position the alignment
sticker for the pivoting board hooks (aka “Chinese
hooks”) at your marks and center it along the seam.
Center-punch or drill 1" starter holes for accuracy
(Figure D), then drill 4 holes with the 6" bit. Clean
excess top sheet material with a razor, and wear
gloves to protect yourself from the fiberglass.
3c. Flip the board over and countersink the holes
about 3mm deep with a ½" bit, to keep the screw
heads flush with your base. Clean up excess base
material with a razor.
Remove the sticker from the top sheet and mount
the hooks on your screws. The bushings go on the
open section of the hook. Tighten the locking nuts
down with an 8mm wrench and hex tool — the
hooks should swing, but not loosely.
4. Mount the touring bracket.
4a. Place the touring brackets, climbing blocks, and
all associated hardware in approximate positions
on the top sheet to find an accurate position of the
balance point of the board (the extra weight will
affect this). Locate the balance point by placing
the board on a single Toko bracket or some other
fulcrum. Mark this point on the top sheet.
Various sources recommend placing the pivot
point ¼" to 1" forward of the actual balance point.
This will make the tails drop quicker, thus increasing
efficiency in your stride and kick turns.
4b. Align the paper template with your mark and
tape it down. Center-punch or drill 1" starter holes,
3 for each bracket, front hole first (Figure E). Then