OUTDOORS
Know your limits, get basic avalanche training
(AIARE Level 1), and carry avalanche rescue
equipment. For more about splitboards and the
freaks who ride them, check out splitboard.com.
1. Make the jig and
mount the board.
NOTE: If you really trust your skills with a
circular saw, then go ahead and use one. However, cutting the board is easily the most critical
step in this project, and there’s no good way to
correct mistakes. For that reason, I chose to use
a table saw and build a quick-and-dirty jig to
keep the cut straight.
1a. This step is critical. Using a ruler along the base
of the snowboard, measure and mark the center in
at least 6 places. Using your center marks, take
a long straightedge and draw a line the full length of
the base sheet (Figure A). Flip the board over and
run a strip of masking tape down the center of the
top sheet (eyeball it), to reduce splintering.
1b. Cut the 1× 10 to the full length of the board plus
at least 8" of overhang on both ends. Remove a rectangular section at each end that’s at least 11" long
and 7½" deep, to accommodate the nose and tail.
Clamp your 1× 10 jig to the board, with its outside
edge parallel to the centerline, and its inside edge
roughly centered between the factory binding
mounts. Mark the jig edge on the top sheet, and
mark the locations of 2 factory mounts on the jig.
Remove the jig and drill 2 holes at your marks, using
a ¼" bit. Be accurate, as you’ll be using the outside
of the jig against the saw guide. Screw the jig in
place using M6×20mm screws (Figure B).
2. Cut the snowboard and
finish the inside edges.
2a. Mount the thinnest blade you can on your table
saw, to minimize the amount of material removed;
I used a 7¼" Skilsaw blade.
Place your snowboard, base-side down, on the
saw table. Support it in place and adjust the blade
height so it’ll cut through as much of the board
as possible, except the metal edges. Adjust the
saw’s guide to align the blade with your centerline.
Repeat at the other end of the board (“measure
twice, cut once”).
130 Make: Volume 20
MATERIALS AND TOOLS
Board, kit, and hardware:
All-mountain snowboard with wood core
The stiffer the better.
Voilé Split Kit $160 from backcountry.com
or voileusa.com
1× 10 board at least 16" longer than your snowboard,
or ¾" plywood cut to this size for making the
table saw jig
West System 655-K G/flex Epoxy Kit 2-part medium-cure epoxy with palettes, gloves, and tools, $28
from westsystem.com
Sanding block with 150-grit sandpaper
M6×12mm T-nuts with teeth ( 12–16)
Call Voilé for these.
M6×12mm flathead screws ( 12–16)
available at good ski and board repair shops
M6×20mm flathead screws ( 2)
Base repair and tuning:
Swix Base Cleaner for removing excess epoxy
and for cleanup
Stanley Surform 7¼" shaver $4 from
acehardware.com
Steel base refreshing brush $17 from
Tognar Toolworks, tognar.com
Metal Grip P-tex repair string $7 from Tognar
Base repair iron $36 from Tognar
Steel scraper/burnisher $24 from Tognar
Toko board grips (optional) very useful,
from Toko ( toko.ch) or Tognar
Table saw with 7¼" blade or smaller
Electric drill and bits: 1", ¼", y", 6"
Phillips screwdriver
Hex wrench, 6mm
Dremel rotary tool with 2" cutoff wheel
Metal file, center punch, razor blade
Hammer and 13mm socket for T-nut installation
Scotch-Brite scouring pad
Masking tape
Filter mask
Goggles
Gloves
2b. Wear a filter mask, goggles, and gloves to make
the cut. With moderate and constant pressure,
place the jig against the table saw guide and push
the board through. Move the board steadily through
the cut and keep any readjustments to a minimum.
Cut the metal edges with a Dremel and 2" cutoff
wheel (Figure C). Any remaining board core must
be cut through with a hacksaw.
2c. If you’re a stickler, you can mount steel edges
into the seam of the cut for better edge performance
in ski touring mode, but I chose not to — this is best
