6c. On one end, poke the surplus fabric over the foam and
into the center hole. Cut the wood dowel and drill both ends
as shown. Attach one 4¼" disk to the end of the dowel with
a 2½" lag bolt and washer.
6d. Press the dowel-disk assembly, dowel first, into one end of
the cylinder. Gather the material as you press, and space the
folds neatly around the inside circle. Stop pressing when the
outside face of the disk is about 1½" from the end.
6e. From the other end, stuff at least 4oz of Holofil or other stuffing between the dowel and the inside wall of the cylinder. Hold
the other disk to keep it from being pushed out the end. Try to fill
all voids, keeping the dowel in the center. The more stuffing you
can push in, the more comfortable your headrest will be.
6f. Fold the surplus material over the foam at the other end.
6g. Put a lag bolt and washer through the hole in the second
disk, then push the tip of the bolt into the hole in the end of the
dowel. Tip the disk inward and press it into the foam core, keeping the fabric as neat as you can. You can press the other end’s
disk in a little farther to make it easier.
6h. Tighten the second lag bolt with a ratchet wrench, while holding the first bolt with pliers. Neaten your fabric folds at both ends.
6i. Staple 2 small strips of velcro to the headrest support near
the top, so their outside edges are 8" apart.
6j. Mount the support to the bevel on cross brace A, exactly
in the center, with three #8× 1½" screws. Temporarily stick the
headrest to the velcro strips on the support and give the chair