6. REMOVE THE USB PLUG
FROM THE FLASH DRIVE.
The standard USB plug is too large to fit inside the
battery, so it needs to be removed with a soldering
iron or a micro heat gun. Heat the solder as evenly
as possible, without melting any of the surface-mount components. Don’t pull the socket; applying
too much pressure will break the fine metal tracks
on the circuit board.
7. WIRE THE TAGS ON
THE MINI USB SOCKET.
The wires should be connected as shown in the
diagram (Figure G). This will take a steady hand and
plenty of patience. If you have a magnifying light,
you might want to use it. Begin by applying solder to
the wire and the socket individually, then put them
together and touch them with the iron to briefly
remelt the solder. Holding the iron on for too long
will melt the socket. Once the wires are soldered in
place, strengthen the joint by applying a little epoxy
resin to the back of the socket (Figure H).
8. CONNECT AND TEST
THE MINI SOCKET.
Trim the mini socket’s wires so that they reach the
tags that the original USB plug was connected to.
82 Make: Volume 16
Solder them into place, but don’t overheat them
CAUTION: Make sure you’ve wired the socket correctly. It’s possible to permanently damage
your computer if you don’t.
Plug the USB drive into the computer to check
that it’s working. If it is, then carry on making;
otherwise go back and check your wiring. The
circuit must work before you can continue.
9. GLUE THE SOCKET AND
WIRES IN PLACE.
Use more epoxy, holding the socket in place with a
small clamp if necessary (Figure J). When the glue is
dry, remove the clamp and slide the circuit into the
battery housing, with the socket pointing out.
Illustration by Julian Honoré/ p4rse.com
10. INSTALL 2 SMALL MAGNETS
IN THE CASE.
Set these back slightly from the edge of the case,
but don’t block the USB socket (Figure K). Make
sure the poles of the magnets are both facing the
same way relative to the battery case.
Apply a little more epoxy and hold the magnets in
place with small clamps or tweezers until the glue