TELEPHONY

C D

E

Fig. C: For reinforcement, use part of the Crosley’s shell and screw it back on using the original screws. Fig. D: Cut holes in the Chatter phone’s cradle so the plungers can move up and down freely. Fig. E: Make

Bell

I put the bell on the outside of the Chatter phone by pop-riveting its mount across the sound vents in the back. The 2 wires powering the bell tucked neatly through one of the vents (Figure F).

Handset

I assembled the handset last, after testing the modded body with a working donor handset. The Crosley’s handset had delicate wiring that melted under a soldering iron, so I used an older phone from a thrift store. I gutted the handset, cutting the wires to the microphone and speaker. Then I used a coping saw to cut off the Chatter handset’s caps, ½" from each end.

To add sufficient weight to push down the plungers, I hammered a 4" length of ¼" brass pipe into shape in a vise, threaded the curved pipe through the handle, and glued it in place. I cut out a hole for the jack, then fished the wiring through the pipe.

I drilled 5" sound holes through the end caps, following the toy’s existing dimple pattern, then glued in the microphone and speaker. I resoldered the wire connections, insulated them with tape, and glued the jack in place. Finally, I taped the caps back onto the handset tightly, using precisely cut

156 Make: Volume 16

F

brackets for the circuit board, screw them to the board, and then pop-rivet them to the Chatter phone. Fig. F: Put the bell on the outside of the Chatter phone by pop-riveting its mount in the back.

red electrical tape that matched the toy almost perfectly (Figure F).

Conclusion

That’s how I turned a classic toy into a working telephone. Now call someone! With a phone like this, you’ll have plenty to talk about.

Frank E. Yost is an amateur artist who lives in Andover, Minn. He wrote the Retro R/C Racer project in MAKE, Volume 11.

Coloring Glue When you're about to glue up a crack repair or any other job where the glue will have to fill some gaps and be visible, don’t forget to add some color to the glue. It’s always better to have the glue line looking a bit darker than the surrounding wood, and the closer you match the color the better. Regular powdered artist’s pigments work well with most any glue, whether water soluble or catalyzed. —Frank Ford, frets.com Find more tools-n-tips at makezine.com/tnt.