1f. Make sure the lid moves up and down freely, then remove it
with the hinges attached. Sand all edges of the lid and frame,
removing any excess glue, then seal or paint the wood with
something nontoxic (I rubbed it with beeswax). Reattach the lid,
and your frame is finished.
1g. Mark and cut 4 shapes out of
wood. I made a triangle, pentagon,
circle, and star from a block 12" thick.
NOTE: I cut my own shapes, but you can
also use pre-shaped wooden blocks.
1h. Paint and seal shapes with nontoxic products. I used food dye
to stain, then beeswax to seal.
1i. Drill y" holes in the center of each shape, about halfway
through, then glue a 1" piece of ¼" dowel into each. Allow the
glue to dry.
2. POPULATE THE CIRCUIT BOARD
2a. Fit and solder the resistors and
diodes to the board. Be sure to fit the
diodes in the correct direction.
2b. Solder on IC sockets for the
28-pin microprocessor (I used two
14-pin holders end-to-end), for the
16-pin 3-to- 8 decoder, and for the
8-pin audio op-amp. Add the capacitors, potentiometer, and crystal (in
an optional 3-pin socket strip).
NOTE: I designed and used a custom circuit
board. You can also use plain breadboard
and follow the schematic, but the wiring
will be dense. Either way, refer to the
diagrams at makezine.com/13/sequencer.