6d. As in a vintage car, the hood is held down with a strap. Make it by cutting an 11"×¾" strip from an old
bicycle inner tube. Then cover each end with electrical tape and cut a slit for attaching it to the hooks
under the car. On another model car I used leather instead of rubber, making it more authentic.
6e. Make the hood strap hooks out of a wire coat hanger. Cut 2" pieces, then use needlenose pliers to
make hooks on one side and loops on the other. Pop-rivet the loops under the frame.
7. INSTALL THE GEARBOX, STEERING, AND RADIO UNITS
7a. Cut off the ball joint pivot that protrudes from the front of the gearbox assembly. Thread a 1" metal
rod through the horizontal sleeve on the gearbox that sits just under the old ball joint.
7b. Attach the rear shocks to the back
of the gearbox, then drill and bolt the
other ends to the rear shock towers.
Connect the front of the gearbox
by drilling holes in the frame for the
metal rod to thread through, then trim
the excess length and secure it with
lock collars at each end. Put brass
bushings onto the steering shafts,
then install the front wheels and tires.
7c. Cut frame bracket 5A out of thick aluminum and rivet it flat
into the frame. Bolt the servo unit to 3A and 5A so that the steering
rods run underneath the frame. To boost undercarriage clearance,
I raised the steering unit up on ½"-thick wooden spacers. Install
the receiver and speed control boxes behind the servo, on opposite
sides of the frame, under the scuttle. I cut and riveted small brackets
to hold them, but you can also just use double-sided foam tape.
7d. Use scrap metal and rivets or bolts to connect the rods up to
the steering block arms. Or, if the rods are long enough, you can
bend them up to reach. I used some junk brass rod with rivets.
7e. Connect the battery unit and
install it in front of the servo. I drilled
holes in 3A and 5A, looped wire tightly
between the 2 on either side, and
used more wire to suspend the battery between the 2 loops.