HANG IT: KNIFE RACK
Fig. A: Cardboard and Bristol board spacers for
backing the magnets. These will be glued into the
flange. Fig. B: Nuts stacked over a hole in the flange.
Fig. C: Magnets lined up. Fig. D: Magnets and nuts glued
into the flange. Fig. E: Bristol board scaffolding on the
end; glue it to the edge of the nut.
» C-shaped metal flange Mine was
1" wide by 16½" long. An old drawer
slide is perfect.
» Flat rectangular magnets wide
enough to fill the middle of the flange,
approximately ½" thick
» Nuts and/or washers
» Bristol board or heavy art paper
» Super glue
» Paper with pattern to cover the rack
» High gloss finish for decoupage
I used Enviro Tex Lite Pour-On High
Gloss Finish. It comes with a resin
and a hardener to be mixed.
» Latex gloves
» Plastic cap from bottled water
» Plastic knife and matchstick
» Wood screws #10× 1¼"
1. Back the magnets.
The open side of the flange will become the face of
the rack. For the magnets to lie flush with the face
of the rack, they need to be raised off the back by
a cardboard backing. Cut a length of cardboard to
fit the inside back of the flange and glue it down
(Figure A). If the magnets don’t line up flush with the
front edges, add Bristol board paper until they do.
2. Create support for hanging.
Nuts and/or washers support the screws that go
into the wall, so their holes should have a bigger
diameter than the screws. Find a hole in the back
of the flange at each end, then glue down as many
nuts and/or washers as you need, stacked on top
of one another to create a hollow tube that’s flush
with the face of the rack (Figure B).
3. Place your magnets.
The magnets should be slightly narrower than the
open side of the flange. Line them up before placing
them in the flange to check that they fit (Figure C).
They don’t have to cover the whole area; small gaps
are OK but should not exceed ½". Align the polarity
of the magnets so they repel each other. This keeps