1e. Cut the loop of warp yarn around the warping
peg and tie it in 1 big, loose overhand knot (Figures
E and F).
1f. Wind the warp onto the back beam, separating the
layers with heavy paper (Figure G). Check to make
sure that the paper is winding on straight. Every so
often, pull on the warp at the front to tighten it around
the beam.
1g. Turn the loom around and work from the front.
Beginning at either edge of the warp, take 1 of the
2 warp ends out of each slot and thread it through
the adjacent hole (Figure H). Repeat all the way
across until all the holes have been threaded.
1h. Tie the ends in 1" sections (bunches of 8)
onto the front apron rod, using the first part of a
surgeon’s knot (i.e., a double overhand knot, like
when you start to tie your shoes but with an extra
pass through, as in Figure I). Check the tension all
the way across the width of the warp to make sure
it’s even, then secure the knots with a bow knot
(Figure J).
2. Begin weaving.
2a. Wind a stick shuttle with dark red-orange in a
figure- 8 pattern (Figure K); wind only as much as
is comfortable in your hand and will fit through the
shed. Place the heddle in the up position and look
through from the side; you’ll see an opening, the
shed, through which you’ll pass the shuttle (Figure L).
To weave, you’ll simply place the heddle alternately
in the up position (“up shed”) and the down position (“down shed”), passing the shuttle through the
shed each time, back and forth.
2b. To spread the warp to prepare for weaving,
just pass the shuttle back and forth between
the upper and lower sheds 3 or 4 times before
pressing the yarn into place using the heddle.
Repeat if necessary.
