of 16". The latter is your warp bar; it needs to be
able to fit inside your frame.
1f. Measure out every ½" across the top and bottom of the front side of your loom. Start by finding
the center, and mark every ½", working your way to
the outside of the frame (Figure E). Make sure you
mark the center so that it stands out a bit.
1g. Make notches at every ½" mark, using your
X-Acto knife; just score the frame lightly (Figure F).
Repeat, this time tying the bar ends to the bottom
of your frame. Adjust the temporary supports until
the bar is parallel to the frame and is held tight
(Figure G).
NOTE: When planning your project, you may
only want an 8"-wide piece. Measure 4" to
either side of your center point so it will be
nice and even. I went for the full 16" this time
around. Remember, though, that the wider the
piece, the longer it will take to warp.
2b. Tie 1 end of your warp to the left side of the
warp bar, where your piece will start. For an 8" wide
piece, you would tie it 4" to the left of the center
2. Warp your loom. point of your warping bar. You’ll also want to think
2a. Tie temporary supports to your 16" warping bar, about how many warps per inch you want. For our
the bar that shifts your work around the frame. This project we’ll use 10 epi (ends per inch). We marked
bar needs to be positioned in the bottom quarter off every ½" with a score mark, so we just need to
of your frame. Secure the warp bar by tying yarn make sure we get 1 warp into each score and 4 in
to both ends and then to the top of your frame. between.
Illustration by Kristin Roach
NOTE: The front of your loom is the side with
the modified screw/hooks in it.
