FOR THE LOOM:
» Uni-Stretch embroidery frame
stretcher bars ( 2 pairs) sizes 22" and
18" available at Michaels. You can also
use canvas stretcher bars in the same
sizes, available at your local art store;
just make sure to pick up 2 of each size.
» ½"× 36" wood dowel rods ( 2)
9" screw hooks, 2" long ( 4)
» Wood glue
» Drill and small drill bit
» Bench vise
» X-Acto knife
» Small saw for cutting dowel rods
NOTE: You can make your loom any size.
I have looms ranging from 8"× 10" to
18"× 22"; just remember that if you go
larger than that, you need to build your
frame from wood that is at least 1"× 2½"
or the tension of the warps will, well, warp
your frame. I have even snapped a few
frames, not a fun experience at all.
1. Build the loom.
1a. Fill the joins of your frame with glue and snap
them together. This usually requires the gentle
nudge of a floor or a rubber mallet.
1b. On your frame, mark where your 4 screw hooks
will go. Mark the 16" and 18" points on the long
sides (Figure A). Drill the 4 holes just deep enough
to get the screws started, ¼" or less.
Photography by Kristin Roach
» 100yds of sturdy yarn Cotton size #10
works well. Warping yarns have to be of
a particularly hardy breed. A good test
is to hold a length of yarn in your hands
and pull; if it holds, then it should be just
fine. You want something that will make
your hands hurt when you try to break it.
» 20yds of sturdy yarn in a
1c. Bend your screw hooks over backward. Clamp
the screw end into your vise, with the open part of
the hook facing toward you. Grab the end of the
hook with your pliers and bend it away from you
until it is parallel to the floor or as close as you can
manage (Figures B and C).
» 1"× 18" strips of cardboard ( 2)
1d. Twist the screws into your starter holes (Figure D).
» Sheet of paper
1e. Cut your dowel rods by clamping them in your
bench vise. You need 2 lengths of 20" and 1 length