warp threads 1, 3, 5, etc., should be on top of the
stick and 2, 4, 6, etc., below the stick. Turn the
stirrer on its edge, creating a shed. Work the shuttle
through the opening of the shed (Figure K).
NOTE: Since the side selvedges won’t be used
in the final piece, if you need to insert or drop
a yarn, just leave a tail at the edge (Figure N).
5. Finish.
5a. To remove your fabric from the loom, cut the
ends (Figure O) long enough to tie knots to secure
the final rows (Figure P). Lift off the nails on the end
where you began weaving (Figure Q).
4e. Slide the first shed stick to the top of the binder.
Photograph by Cody Pickens (T)
Create a second shed using another paint stirrer 5b. Hand-wash the woven pieces in the sink,
with threads 2, 4, 6, etc., on top (opposite the first squishing them around a bit. Lay flat to dry.
stick). Turn the second stirrer on its side to create
the second shed, insert the shuttle (Figure M), beat
the yarn into place, and remove the second shed
stick. Bring the first shed stick forward and weave
as before.
4d. Position the weft thread as shown in Figure L,
and use the shed stick laid flat to beat the yarn
into place.
4f. Continue weaving by using the “stored” shed
for the first pass and creating an opposite shed
anew each time for the second pass.
5c. Trace your pattern onto fusible interfacing, noting the grain line (Figure R). Follow the interfacing’s
instructions to adhere it to the back of the woven
fabric (Figure S). Match the pattern’s grain line with
the direction of the warp. Follow the pattern’s steps
to sew the vest.
