cut
here
too
4
leave
about
5"
1
3
X
Y
Z
2
AA
BB
CC
DD
Fig. X: Make sure to glue the bottom together for
re-punching! Fig. Y: Cut the excess lining. Figs. Z & AA:
How to begin stitching. Fig. BB: It’s OK if it doesn’t look
like a shoe yet. Fig. CC: Use the hook tool to tighten.
EE
FF
Fig. DD: After stitching, the sole is usually uneven.
Fig. EE: Pull with your needle to space the sole evenly.
Fig. FF: Hard to turn the shoe inside out? It’s much
easier to glue the insole this way.
when the thread is long; just focus on the order
of the stitch.
10e. Don’t worry if the stitches are loose (Figure
BB). Stitch to about halfway, then start tightening
the thread with the hook tool (Figure CC). When
tightened, the top part of the thread should sit
right around the edge of the sole. After stitching
all around, the sole may be uneven (Figure DD).
If so, use the needle to make an even crease
(Figure EE).
10g. As you did with the accent on the flap, make
2 tight knots and cut off the thread, leaving about
¼" on each end. Carefully burn the ends using the
lighter, and quickly blow the flame out before it
reaches the knot. While still hot, hammer down
the end to make one glob of knot.
11. Attach the insole.
There are 2 ways to glue the insole. You can glue
the front half of the insole and the shoe, then do
the back half.
Or you can slowly turn the entire shoe inside
10f. Finish off your stitching where the first thread out and do it in one shot (Figure FF). Always wait
came out. Both threads should end inside the shoe. until the glue on each piece is completely dry, then
Pull both ends tightly as you flip the shoe inside out, attach. Use hard glue for a permanent hold.
just enough to expose the ends (you don’t have
to turn the shoe entirely).
