2b. Moving from the armhole toward the neckline, cut the
shoulder seam, cutting as close as possible to the seam,
continuing straight through the ribbing. Repeat this on the
opposite shoulder. The shoulders should both have raw edges,
and you should be able to lay them flat.
2c. With the shirt lying flat, create the pegged pencil skirt
shape by marking a line from the top of the hip to the hemline.
The degree of pegging is up to you. I usually make the width of
the skirt at the hem 3"– 6" less than the fullest part of the hips.
3. FIT THE SKIRT
You can choose one of the following 3 methods to fit your skirt. Although you may get the perfect fit the
first time, be prepared to make a couple of tweaks.
Method 1 The easiest way to fit the
skirt is to slip the prepared T-shirt on
yourself, inside out, and pin the skirt
to fit. Be sure to fit the skirt with the
ribbing in a high-waist position. After
pinning the length of the skirt from
high waist to hem, run your tailor’s
chalk beside the pin line on each side,
front and back. In case you need to
remove some pins, you’ll still have a
seam line guide to re-pin.
Carefully remove the skirt. Using
the basting stitch on your machine
( 4– 6 stitches per inch), sew the new
side seams for your skirt. Turn it right
side out and try it on to check your
fit. Baste the adjustment. Repeat this
step until you have the fit you desire.
When the tweaking is finished, sew
the side seam with a normal stitch of
2. 5– 3 stitches per inch. If you have
trouble with this method, you might
enlist the help of a friend. Pinning is
sometimes easier when done by a
second pair of hands.
NOTE: If adjustments need to be made, turn the skirt inside
out, slip it back on, and chalk mark what adjustments are
needed. I use tailor’s chalk, but you can also pins.