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1.BUILD THE POUR MOLD
1a. Cut the window screening to a size slightly larger — the interior size will be the finished size of
than the outside dimensions of the canvas stretcher your paper ( 5"× 7" in this case). Secure the sides
(my canvas stretcher here is 7"× 9"). Use a staple with wood glue and nails.
gun to attach the window screening mesh to the
canvas stretcher, making sure it’s as taut as possible.
1b. Cut 4 pieces of 1"× 4" lumber (here my pieces
were 5" and 9" long) to fit together into a rectangle
1c. Add the hook and eye latches on either
side of the mold and deckle box to hold them
together tightly.
2.MA KE THE PULP
The paper you choose to recycle will affect the
consistency, color, and feel of your handmade
paper. In general, bills and printer papers will create a
smoother, more consistent sheet, while magazine
pages and glossy papers will tend to chop up more
irregularly, creating a more “artistic” look. Experiment with mixing different papers together.
2a. Cut or tear your paper into approximately 1"
square pieces, and place them in the blender with
enough water to cover them completely. With
the pour method, you can make as much pulp as
you want at a time; a good rule of thumb is that
whatever the size of your original sheet, the pulp
you make from it will make a sheet about 1" smaller
in both width and length.
2b. Blend the paper scraps and water until all large
chunks are pulverized (about 30 seconds to 1 minute). The longer you blend the pulp, the smoother
and more regular your paper will be. Pulping can
dull your blender’s blades quickly, so it’s a good idea
to keep a dedicated papermaking blade or get a
separate blender (you can usually find one at a thrift
store) if you want to make paper frequently.
2c. Personalize your pulp! You can add in a wide
variety of materials while blending, including leaves,
flowers, glitter, confetti, seeds, and much more.
It’s best not to blend ribbons or other long fibers,
as they can get wound around the blades. Finally,
consider dyeing your pulp (see “101: Natural Dyeing”
in CRAFT, Volume 04, page 148).
