» Corrugated plastic sheeting
( 9½" of 26"-wide, should have
10 wavy ribs)
» ¾" square pine or hardwood sticks
( 3' per lantern)
» Galvanized all-purpose utility wire
(12-gauge, 42" per lantern)
» #8 truss-head screws (¾" long,
6 per lantern)
» Light gauge sheet metal
» Clear tape or ¼" heat-shrink tubing
» Tea light candle
» 120-grit fine sandpaper
» Tin snips
» Wire cutter or pliers with
» Drill and bits about 1"
» Phillips screwdriver
» Utility knife
there is 5¾" of wire between them. Make sure
this spacing is correct, then twist the second
stick and bend the wires going through it to
form another “V.”
Repeat with the third wooden upright. You should
end up with a triangular framework where the free
ends of the wire align, overlapping by about 1½".
The framework will probably be crooked at first;
tweak the wire bends slightly until the frame is
symmetrical and stands straight. Leave the free
wire ends unattached for now.
5. Attach the corrugated plastic.
Roll up the corrugated plastic into a tube, overlapping the first and last ribs. This material is stiff
enough that it will try to spring open again, so be
careful! You may need an extra pair of hands here,
or use packing tape, spring clips, etc., to keep the
tube held together in the following step.
Slip the wood/wire framework inside the corrugated plastic tube, with one upright behind the
overlap. Make sure that the wood protrudes an
equal distance beyond the plastic at each end.
Adjust the rib overlap so it is snug and even from
top to bottom, and then tightly hold the plastic
and wood together.
With a drill bit slightly larger than your screw
1. Cut the sheet to size. threads, drill holes 2" from each edge of the plastic.
Mark a 9½" strip from the corrugated sheet, cutting (Don’t drill into the wood.) Drive the screws into the
across the ribs. This material is a bit too brittle to wood uprights, but don’t tighten them too much —
cut with a saw, but tin snips work well. stop when the head just begins to press against the
plastic. Check that the other 2 uprights are straight
2. Cut the uprights. within their ribs, and then finish the remaining
Cut 3 wooden sticks (uprights) 12" long. Sand their holes and screws.
sides and smooth sharp corners with 120-grit
sandpaper. Measure 2" from each end and drill 6. Join the wire ends.
crossways holes slightly larger than the wire you Now you can join the overlapping wire ends togeth-
are using. er. Wrapping them in clear tape works fine, but for a
more finished look, I used ¼" heat-shrink tubing. (A
3. Cut the wire to length. wonderful craft material sold by electronics suppli-
Unroll several feet of wire, carefully unbending it be- ers, this shrinks down to half of its original diameter
fore cutting. Cut 2 pieces 21" long. Thread the wires when held over a flame.)
through the holes in one of the wooden uprights
until an equal length extends from each side. Bend 7. Make the candle base.
the wires upward on both sides of the wood to form To make a platform for the candle, I cut a triangle
a “V” of about 60 degrees. from thin-gauge aluminum, although a coffee-can
top works, too. Trace the outline of the candle in
4. Connect the uprights. the center and mark 3 rectangular tabs within this
Thread the wires through the 2 holes of the next circle. With a sharp utility knife, puncture the metal
wooden upright. Slide the sticks together until and cut 3 sides of the tabs, then fold them upward.